Cima Fanis Sud

We have ascent to Cima Fanis Sud at the end of July 2013. In middle of summer was weather extremely cold, but visibility was just great in each direction. Instead of regular hike we used cable car. Hut Lagazuoi and Piccolo Lagazuoi (2 762 m / 9 062 ft) was crowded. People enjoy sun. However during ascent and descent to Cima Fanis we have met no one. Maybe it was due to our late start around lunch time. When we have started, others went already back. This freedom was really great. It was a pity that my old camera just broke this year, so I had to take picture with my phone.


Cima Fanis Sud belongs to d´Ampezzanských Dolomites. Picture shows south – east part.


We are coming to Passo Falzarego – mountain pass with not ordinary atmosphere, big parking places, cable car, small church, mountain hotel, restaurants, souvenir shops, impressive rocks, lots of people, cars, bikes. Passo Falzarego is busy place.
We are leaving our car in parking place and in cash desk we are buying one way ticket for cable car. It is already lunch time, so we need to speed up our trip. On the way back, we will not make it till last ride. To Piccolo Lagazuoi leads via ferrata “sentiero Kaserjager”, but we will go up in my next article. Let’s get in cable car, leave all that noise behind us.


Cable car brings us to hut Lagazuoi, had a quick coffee a start walking towards Lagazuoi valley. Near cable car is exposure related to World War. Also this area is part of front line and you can find a lot of artefacts. Left on the picture Cima Conturines, righ Cima Fanis Sud our today destination. Cime Fanis belongs to d´Ampezzane Dolomites. Border between d´Ampezzane Dolomites and national park Fanes – Senes – Braies is under Cime Fanes. Thru valley goes “Alta Via delle Dolomiti numero 1.” main Dolomites hiking path. Path towards via ferrata goes right.


We are coming to via ferrata start. During ascent we have passed few barracks. Picture shows west – south side.


Reach via ferrata takes some time. When you use a cable car it seems to be close, but it is just a feeling. Hiking path goes under the mountain.


Great view to Puez – Odle national park and Lagazuoi valley. On the picture you can see Cima Conturines (3 064 m / 10 052 ft) and under west wall of Cime Fanes is lake Lagazuoi (2 182 m / 7159 ft).


We have reached 2652 m / 8 701 ft. On the picture is old. Ex. bivacco della Chiesa. From this angle it looks ok, but inside it is really old and damaged. I am not sure if anyone would like to spend night here.


We are close to via ferrata. Picture is taken under Cima Fanis and it is look back. It shows Piccolo Lagazuoi and valley Lagazuoi. In background is Marmolada. Cable car to Piccolo Lagazuoi is open almost all year, except few months. In winter you use this place for skiing. Via valley you can reach hut Scotoni (1 985 m / 6 512 ft) or hut Alpina (1 726 m / 5 663 ft). Keep in mind that this is only one way slope. There is no cable car to go up :) At the end of valley you need to take bus or hitch hike. Great place for free riders.

Whole area seems like moon land. Eugen E. Husler author of couple dolomites guides describes his first ascent: “La via Tomaselli is for me special and personally outstanding. My first climb of this via ferrata vas important day not only for me, but human kind. In June 21st 1969 with my friend we have reached Cima Fanis summit. I will never forget this day, because in this day Neil Armstrong made his footprint in moon surface”.


Via ferrata is dedicated to Italian journalist Cesco Tomaselli. He was born in 1893 in Venice, and died in 1963 in Milan. He was a founder of “Corriere della Sera” newspaper, which you can buy even today.
In the past via ferrata Tomaselli was one of the hardest routes in Dolomites. Time has changed and it is not true anymore. However it is still hard via ferrata and it is recommended only for experienced climbers with good skills and shape. Difficulty is #4 – Difficult. Route is from 85% secured by rope, 15% not secured with almost vertical parts. Also descent is secured in this route. Reach via ferrata takes about 1,5 hour. Ascent is 1 – 1,5 hour Descent about 2 hours. In total it is 5 – 5,5 hours. Times are just estimates. For us it was much longer hike and it is not because we are slow. Best time to climb is from mid-June till mid-September. Ascent goes in west, west – south wall.


Leaning tower, as in Pisa.


We are higher than leaning tower.


From skill point of view ferrata is more-less ok. There are no “surprises” like overhangs or extramly smooth walls. However walls are vertical and long.



This is last vertical wall and we are on the Cima Fanes sumit.


Let’s have a look 360° around and see what we have here. It is just amazing. Here we see Tofane. First one is Tofana di Rozes (3 225 m / 10 581 ft) and under it is Castelletto and Travenanzes valley. Tofana di Mezzo (3 244 m / 10 643 ft) and Tofana di Dentro (3 236 m / 10 647 ft). We will go to left.


We can see d´Ampezzane Dolomites. Totally right it is Tofana di Dentro. In middle background is Croda di Rossa (3 146 m / 10 322 ft) and below is Col Rosá (2 166 m / 7 106 ft) and Travenanzes valley.


Cime di Furcia Rossa and Travenanzes valley.


In background left Coma Conturines (3 064 m / 10 053 ft). Punta di Mezzo (2 959 m / 9 708 ft) Monte Cavallo (2 912 m / 9 554 ft) and Travenanzes valley.


In background Gruppo Sella and Lagazuoi valley.


Lagazuoi valley, in background Marmolada, right Gruppo Sella.


In background left Civetta (3 220 m / 10 564 ft), right background Marmolada area. In front right Piccolo Lagazuoi, in middle Lagazuoi Grande and behind it is Cima Santa Lucia.


Totally right is part of Tofana di Rozes and Castelletto, under Castelletto is Col dei Bos, next to it are Torri Falzarego and Lagauoi Grande.
In background from left to right Croda del Lago, Formin and behind them Pelmo, Cima Nuvolau, Averau, Civetta and Santa Lucia. In middle Cinque Torri, under it is Formin.


” Sentiero esposto ” in English means not protected, not secured, extremely steep path or road. Also this is part of a descent.


Via ferrata Tomaselli has also some parts secured during descent.



We are almost down, no more adrenalin only long steep descent. However before sunset it is amazing.



We are under Lagazuoi Piccolo and heading toward parking place.


During sunset d´Ampezzane Dolomites gets gold color. This view is really special. On the left is Torri di Falzarego and from left to right is Sorapis, Anteláo and Cinque Torri. Cima Fanis ascent belongs to top via ferratas in Dolomites. We were looking forward to this hike, and we come back with fantastic feelings. This year we had a great weather during summer, and were able to go thru big part of Dolomites.

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