Dolomity d´Ampezzane Gruppo Tofane – Punta Anna

Cloudy and rainy weather in 2014 canceled lot of our plans. After two weeks break from hiking, finally come chance to go somewhere. It was cloudy day and weather forecast was far from perfect. We agreed in a car, we are going to climb short via ferrata Pyramide to Col dei Bois. However when we park our car near Strobel restaurant, we were bit surprised. Col dei Bois was closed due to military training for a week. This kind of information is always bad news. For reasons like this is good to have a backup plan. Few kilometres away is Ivano Dibona hut with big parking place. You can park next to hut, which is situated under Punta Anna mountain. In 2011 I have spend here couple of days during my vacation and did “expedition” to great d´Ampezzanských Dolomites. So for me it was second summit ascent.

Gruppo Tofane. Our route is marked with red. Left arrow shows direction to val Tofana, valley, which is situated between Tofana di Rozes a Tofana di Mezzo. You can visit hut Giussani here. Picture is taken from Averau, shows south part of mountain. In right bottom is Cinque Torri.

There are two ways how reach via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri starting point – one from Cortina d´Ampezzo, go up to hut Ra Vales, 2470 m by cable car and via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri to beginning of via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri – Punta Anna. This route connects to via ferrat Gianni Aglio and then you can continue on via ferrata Tofana di Mezzo. To go down from Tofana di Mezzo you will use cable car. This solution is great when you want to do all 3 via ferratas in one day. We decided to start from Ivano Dibona hut. Passo Falzárego and Cortina d´Ampezzo are connected by route #48 and somewhere in the middle is turn to woods leading to Ivano Dabona hut. From Passo Falzárego – left, from Cortina d´Ampezzo right.Road is really narrow, but there is not much traffic. After less than 2 kilometers road will change to gravel.

From Ivano Dibona hut follow hiking path #421 and you will reach hut Pomédes. Now it is only 10 – 15 minutes to via ferrata start. Picture is taken from beginning of via ferrata and you can see Pomédes hut and village Cortina d´Ampezzo. On the left is Monte Cristallo mountain, on the right Sorapis.

Via ferrata is dedicated to memory italian soldier – precious man Giuseppe Olivier and to all brave men, who lost their lives fighting for freedom in “Grande Guerra” in years 1915 – 1918.

Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri to Punta Anna is from 98 % secured by iron rope and 2 % is hiking path.
Difficulty $4 – difficult.
Starting point from Ivano Dibona hut is about 1 hour.
Climbing time 2 – 2,5 hours.
Descent to Ivano Dibona hut 1 – 1,5 hour.
Total time 4 – 5 hours.

From Punta Anna you can continue to via ferrata ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri which connects to via ferrata Gianni Aglio with ascent to Torre di Aglio.
Difficulty is #5 which means really difficult. 45% of the route is secured by iron rope, 5% are ladders, 20% is not secured dangerous path and 30% are regular hiking path.
From Punta Anna to Torre di Aglio it takes about 1 hour.
Descent – Bus Tofana to Ivano Dibona hut.
Via ferrata Gianni Aglio connect to via ferrata Tofana di Mezzo. Difficulty #3 not so difficulty.

Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri is really amazing. Offers great scenery view, but also some special rock shapes like rock windows and this interesting rock where you should stop and take some nice pictures. But watch your camera 🙂 During my visit we share. I thought that it is tight to my hand, but it was not. Immediately fell down ravine. I thought it is gone forever. Luckily it stopped on the place, where it was safe to descent and was working like a charm.

Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri is not technically demanding, of course there is a few parts, which makes your climbing harder. What makes this route difficult are vertical rocks, where you need to be experienced, be 100% sure about your step, and good physical and mental condition. You can not be scared of heights

On the left Antelao, on the right Croda del Lago and Formin.

Summit picture, you can easily miss Punta Anna summit. After via ferrata ends, you will see only signs saying one way is Torre di Aglio or Giussani mountain hut. Weather was during that day really changing. As you can see in the picture it is raining behind us. Luckily we didn’t get wet and later was weather much better.

From Punta Anna path goes steeply down thru the valley to mountain huts. Giussani hut is worth of visit which offers great view on Tofana di Rozes north side.

Mountain hut Giussani is situated in saddle Fontana Negra. And while you are having small snack, I will go back to 2011 when with other group of people we made “first ascent” and continued to via ferrata Gioanni Aglio. Almost whole ascent we were in clouds. Only at the end of the day weather got better. This is the place where real adventure starts.
On the left is Tofana di Mezzo, You can not see summit itself, cause it is in clouds. On the right is Doss Tofana. Via ferrata continue in the rift reaching Doss Tofana. Picture is taken from east side. Slowly you will go arround to north side and with no secured path to Doss Tofana summit.

Punta Anna 2731 m. Picture taken under Doss Tofana.

Doss Tofana. From this point of view summit is on the ridge.

On the left Tofana di Mezzo, in the middle Torre di Aglio. From east side it really looks like garlic (aglio – garlic), but name comes from Gianni Aglio.

Torre di Aglio.

Ascent to Torre di Aglio, is most difficult part of via ferrata. We did it in June. In this part of the year you can expect snow in some places. On some places snow can be found in the middle of July.

Torre di Aglio, Summit picture. On the left north wall Tofana di Roses, behind me Tofana di Mezzo, unfortunately it is not visible.

Most amazing part of via ferrata is this “horizontal walk” which made us bit sick  🙂 On the picture you can not see extreme deepness under my feet. It is in north part of Torre di Aglio.

Picture is on south part of Torre di Aglio ( in the middle). Descent from tower goes above rock window and it is called Bus Tofana. Hiking path go steeply down to mountain huts. You can of course continue to Tofana di Mezzo Summit. We decided to go down because of already mentioned snow fields.

Above rock window Bus Tofana.

Great pass from north to south side.

Bus Tofana.

Really steep descent. You will feel your knees.

Fontana Negra sadle. On the picture you can see hut Cantore, which is closed. In this saddle you can find lot of “monuments” from Grande Guerra. There is plenty of barracks, ditches and other things which remaind first world war.

Now back to my second ascent. We have a great snack 🙂 we have still plenty of time and weather is almost perfect. So lets take longer road. Via ferrata Sentiero Astaldi is great hike under Punta Anna summit.

Val Valon – valley Valon from Fontana Negra sadle offers great view on d´Ampezzanské rock.

Via ferrata ” Sentiero Astaldi ” offers view to earth history. On Punta Anna bottom you can see all kind of different rock from old history of the Alps. Those Na úpätí hory Punta Anna sa nachádzajú veľmi pekne viditeľné rabelijské vrstvy vytvorené sedimentáciou pri vzniku Álp. This kind of rocks do not absorb water, which protects mountains from weathering. In background Sorapis and Antelao.

Short walk on hiking path Astaldi is suitable also for small kids. Offers great panoramatic view. This secured path was recently opened.

Great colors of mother earth.

What to say at the end? Great trip with big T. Anyway we didnt “win trophy” as we expected by climbing another 3 000 meters summit – Tofana di Mezzo. But we can still do it later. On the left Tofana di Rozes and bottom of Punta Anna.

Tofana di Rozes. In my next article we will reach the summit. (Nort-east wall)

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