To Lomnicky stit via Jordan route

Again it is October morning and again it is freezing. After climbing to Gerlachovsky stit in almost winter conditions I believed that weather gets better. However I was totally wrong. Anyhow I managed to climb Lomnicky stit via Jordan route, more in following lines.

At the moment when I thought that hiking season in Tatas is over, one of my friends called me asking if I want to climb Lomnicky stit. I did not need to think about it for long time. We decided to go up via Jordan route. At the end of the October we have met with mountain guide at Hrebienok. From here we started to hike thru Mala Studena valley towards Tery hut. We still did not know if we are going up via Jordan route. All of us tried to evaluate condition of the route. At Tery hut we start heading to the beginning of the Jordan route.

With every step we had more and more snow under our feet, but still good for climbing. We walk relatively easy and fast. During look back breaks we could admire beauty of Prostredny hreben, Ladove stity or Tery hut. Before we have enter couloir, we have to put on warm clothes and all necessary equipment. Harness, helmet, ice ax and crampons are must. Mountain guide secured us by rope and we were ready to climb.

Morning on the rocks is warm and we enjoy the sun. There was no much snow, which makes us to believe ascent will be easy. Our ascent was totally vertical, but we have been full of energy. As we were gaining altitude there was more and more wet snow. Some of it was felling down from crampons. Soon we have snow up to our knees and we had to speed up. It took us much longer than during regular conditions, but finally we have reached last climbing part. We had to wait here, because mountain guide went to check if it safe to continue in north wall. After he got back, he decided to climb in south wall, because it was safer. After a while we got back to the north wall despite the lot of snow in front of us. Under our feet was huge walls, and we can see Medena Kotlina or Zelene lake.

There is still plenty of snow, but we are not full of energy. We have to walk in high snow, and find climbing chains under it. There was no way back, so we had to go only up. Suddenly we are under the chimney. We had to concentrate a start ascending or better climb up slowly. Last chain, last few more steps and I can touch railing, which means we are on the top of the Lomnicky stit. We did exactly the same path as Karol Jordan. It was freezing on the summit, however we did not feel as much excited as we expected. All of us are exhausted due to the hard condition. At least I have lots of great memories on this day. On top of that we have pushed our limits bit further.

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