Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart

For the weekend is weather forecast good for some of the places I keep my eyes on. About year ago I have seen Mangart (2 677m / 8783) for the first time and heard about Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart. For me it was clear immediately. I must climb that via ferrata including Ferrata Slovena. In less than one year my dream come to reality.

It was a tough week and on top of that on Friday I am flighing back from business trip. From Vienna airport I got home quickly, pack my staff, pick up people who are going with me in the city and hit the road. Austrian highways are almost empty. I am looking forward to two nights in tent at Lago del Predil and of course  to Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart, which is planned for Saturday. We do not have any plans for Sunday.

Lago di Predil is pretty full. We need to have tents directly on the beach. Form me it is not an issue. After quick dinner we are going to sleep. Tommorow it will be hard day. For my sister it is going to be highest summit she has ever been.

Saturday morning we are up early. Shortly after six we are having breakfast and packing only necessary things. Tents, sleeping pads and begs will stay on the beach. Thru Passo del Predil we are entering Slovenia and few minutes later start ascending via toll road (5 euro fee) to Mangart saddle. End of the road is closed due to falling rocks, but not all the drivers respect the sign.

It is few minutes after 8 and we are leaving the car. First few minutes we have to follow road to Mangart saddle. Few meter below us is hut in Mangart saddle (Koca na Mangartskem sedlu). From the road we took right turn towards Mangart following hiking path, which is Slovenia – Italy border. To be 100% which way we need to go I am asking some turist for direction to Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart. Advice is follow them, cross the border back to Italy and descent for couple of minutes. Guys are much faster, but we see them crossing stone screes few meters below us. We do the same thing and suddenly we are at the beginning of Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart.

Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart

Wall looks great, I am really looking forward to it. Difficulty should be easy, it is classified as “C”, but only one part of it is C, rest is easier. I hope my sister will make it. She never climbed this long vertical route and over all she is not real via ferrata fan. First few meters are reall easy and you need to climb thru small rock window. Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart is well secured and there is plenty of places where to put your feet. Nobody is using iron rope as help. This makes climibing even more exciting, all of us feel secure and can fully enjoy view to Italian valley with two lakes. If it possible we let faster climbers to pass us. We have plenty of time, no need to rush.

In small grass field, which split Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart to two parts, we are having rest and enjoy view. Next few meters are the hardest part of whole route. Girls have no problem with it, which makes me feel good. On the right side we can see Lower Mangart. From saddle between two summits regular hikers watching us. Just few more meters and we will make it to the summit. WRONG. Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart is not going to Mangart summit. It is just crossing hiking path, which goes to Mangart.

Ferrata Slovena to Mangart

No issue. Again I need to ask where is Ferrata Slovena beginning. We need to cross screes, descent few meters and we should find it. This route should be easier (difficulty B), so do not hesitate to climb. It begins with regular hiking path, In dangerous places you secure your self by using fixed iron rope, but every time it is just few meters of it. There is still less and less of the iron rope and slowly it changes to the climbing. Most of the climbing is very easy. Only from time to time, you need to use your hands. I am still expecting real via ferrata route, but there is none. At least we have great views on Slovenian site. Directly below us is parking place with my car, hut or top of the toll road. I still can not see the summit, which makes me feel uncomfortable. It is just screes and rock all the way up. Shortly after 1pm we are at the Mangart summit.

We are taking a break for couple of minutes, enjoy view, do lots of picture and trying to find Triglav or Jalovec. From summit to hut Koca na Mangartskem sedlu it is just 90 minutes. For me it is not a surprise I have expected it. However descent is not an easy walk. On hiking path you ca easily slip and fell down to the valley. Just be careful.

At hut we have Radler and having a rest. During the hike we have been short on water, so having a drink in shade is pure joy. We spend on hut a long time. During the dinner in “restaurant” close to Lago del Predil lake we are talking about todays hike. Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart was really interesting and we have enjoyed the climbing. It was much more fun than Ferrata Slovena. From my point of view I can strongly recommend Via ferrata Italiana to Mangart also to inexperienced climbers. If they are not scared of heights, they will enjoy it.

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